Bhutan: Haa Valley, Bumthang, Tang Valley

From Haa Valley to Tang Valley

The Lhakhang Karpo monastery was one of 108 built by a Tibetan King in the 7th century. There is another monastery located higher on a hill behind this one called Lhakhang Nagpo, basically referred to as the white (karpo) and the black (nagpo) monasteries. Together they protect Haa Valley.

The men that serve the king and sit in parliament are given a sword to wear when on duty. It is part of their attire and not to be left behind for any reason.

Haa village is very basic, it has several small shops for clothes, food, and hardware with building supplies.

Homestays are very popular in Haa and are being promoted by the tourism board. The experience is exceptional - the owners are very welcoming, serve delicious food, and make you feel at home.

This is the fishery unit of the Government. Even though fishing is not allowed in Bhutan they work on growing fish and stocking the rivers, but who will catch them?

Chele La (Pass) below, is covered with tall vertical white prayer flags for people that have died. It is a way of remembering the person who died. The more flags the more benefits and significance for the dead, and if there are 108 flags it is very auspicious.

Looking out from Chele Le is a view of Haa Valley. The huge Indian Army camp is clear from the green rooftops.

Colored prayer flags are also placed on the pass for the wind to blow the flags. The five colors signify balance; Blue represents the sky, White the air, Red fire, Green water, and Yellow the earth. The stamped mantra "Om Mani Padme Hum" is on every flag. People chant the same mantra while holding their prayer beads and especially when walking around a stupa.

Another symbol used in Bhutan frequently on houses near the door is the phallus. There are many reasons that they are used, some beliefs I have heard are that they thwart evil, and envy, or add protection, wealth, and other benefits - maybe all these reasons are valid.

Another view of Haa from the road to the Chele La.

Heading East

On the way to Bumthang, a rock painting was on a narrow curve on the old road. Since the road was widened this painting is no longer seen. It was shown in a Bhutanese film called Travellers and Magicians.

 

Bumthang is famous for many sights, and places to visit, including the Ugen Wangchuck Institute for Conservation and Environmental Research or UWICER.

The institute was started in 2004 and has gone through various transformations but it is an important learning and training center for young Bhutanese. 

The Bhutan government stresses conserving and protecting its forests and environment. UWICER recently added the Global Tiger Research Center. The taxidermist seems to have stretched this tiger's skin to make a very long tiger.

The painting of the four harmonious friends below is often seen in Bhutan. This one was on the wall in the UWICER. It is appropriate since it represents "Unity, harmony, and integrity despite one's size or strength." 

On the road to Tang Valley, there is an important stop at the "Burning Lake". It is. It is not actually a lake but a stream with what appears to be a bottomless hole.

It is said that Guru Padmasambhava, an incarnation of Buddha, retrieved a treasure chest from the depths of the stream, and with it came a lantern that was alight.

Soon after the "Burning Lake" the road heads down into Tang Valley full of
wheat, barley, and rice.

As we arrive in Tang Valley it is rice-planting time. The wheat and barley crops were still in some fields but it was time to get the rice in.

This lovely farmhouse still had a field of wheat that was nearly ready to harvest. 

The guest house and museum were visible above the chorten and small stupa.

Below are views of the old palace and the owner's house on the right. The old palace is now a museum with interesting antiques and war weapons.

A small chorten sits in the garden of the house overlooking the valley.

Tang Valley is remote. But not difficult to get to and well worth the trip. There are flights to Bumthang then a drive to Tang Valley or a day-long hike from Bumthang. The best trip is to drive one way and fly one way.