Joys of Arunachal Pradesh and Ziro Plateau

Joy Ride to Ziro Plateau

Well, not exactly a joy ride. The road was in awful shape from landslides. Some slide areas were being cleared by the Indian Army border forces. After four hours of bumping along dodging holes, we needed a tea break. We found an interesting selection of fresh fruits and vegetables for sale along with loads of junk food.
While we rested we noticed that most men were carrying long knives.
Just after our tea stop, we drove past a small hydropower unit. It was supposed to release water downstream but there was very little being released.
Mithun are semi-wild animals related to gaur. They are huge animals that can feed a whole village when sacrificed for special occasions. These animals are hand fed salt by their owners and come to them when called, otherwise, they live wild in the jungle.
After a very long drive, we arrived at Ziro during the rice harvest. 

Everywhere whole families from teenagers to grandparents were in the fields cutting rice. They ate their meals there and worked until it was dark.

The Apatani women of Ziro have made their faces ugly for years. Their beauty was renown across the region. They were so beautiful they were often taken by other tribes and so for this reason they made their faces ugly to prevent being stolen.

Explaining how she measured her rice our hostess lined up her bamboo baskets. Inside the house was heated by a fire in the middle of the room. The smoke went out through the porous roof.
Many women were up early taking their rice to the mill or going to church.


The younger generation will not change their features - beautiful daughters are free to shine.

The Apatani people traditionally believe in the Donyi Polo religion - the sun and moon. Their houses were recognized by straw panels outside where small sacrifices were made to protect them from bad luck. Recently, many Apatani has converted to Christianity.

All the houses have been sprayed with DDT for years, with the dates tattooed onto the house. Most people don't know what DDT is or why the Ministry of Health sprays their buildings. Typically houses are made of woven bamboo mats or slats of wood.


A golden blanket of rice straw-colored the Ziro valley after the rice harvest.

We spent the day trying to meet farmers and ask about their crops and changes in their climate. We visited one family working together, an older mother, her two daughters and a son.



A lone Mithun was seen tied up in a Donyi Polo cemetery - waiting to be sacrificed.
As we left there were some interesting road sideboards that gave advice about drinking, driving and disgraceful wives.
Water is being used for power but little goes downstream. As Arunachal Pradesh grows, and changes they will need more water for power - the forests will suffer more. It will be a tragedy to see this remote part of India change.